Juliana Yamada

The tasting menu at Suragan in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 16, 2023. | Juliana Yamada/The Chronicle

Irma Morales chops birria in the kitchen at Pupuseria Las Cabańas in Hayward, Calif. on Wednesday, Sept. 27, 2023.

Mochi is shaped at the Kotake Family Mochitsuki in San Jose, Calif., on Saturday, Dec. 16, 2023. The Kotake family has hosted mochitsukis at their home for over 25 years.

The Tan Tan DRY Udon at Katsuo + Kombu in San Francisco on Thursday, May 18, 2023. The hot dish contains kurobuta pork, with eggplant and onsen tamago in a spicy umami sauce, topped with nori flakes.  | Juliana Yamada/The Chronicle

Chef Jongmoon Choi slices sautéed pork at Suragan in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 16, 2023.  | Juliana Yamada/The Chronicle

Mari Jacobson massages a drying Hachiya persimmon in her home in Berkeley, Calif., on Tuesday, Dec. 19, 2023. The process of drying persimmons is called hoshigaki, a centuries-old Japanese practice during the fall season. | Juliana Yamada/KQED

The Birria Pupusa Pizza is seen at Pupuseria Las Cabańas in Hayward, Calif. on Wednesday, Sept. 27, 2023. 

The Kakiage Udon at Katsuo + Kombu in San Francisco on Thursday, May 18, 2023. The Kakiage is mixed root vegetables fried in tempura batter.  | Juliana Yamada/The Chronicle

Irma Morales places a finished pupusa on to a plate to make a Birria Pupusa Pizza in the kitchen at Pupuseria Las Cabańas in Hayward, Calif. on Wednesday, Sept. 27, 2023.

The “How To Store Peaches” Suragan in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 16, 2023. The dessert is made up of peach ice cream, mascarpone-almond cream, white chocolate powder, and almond crumble.  | Juliana Yamada/The Chronicle

City Chopped owner Adam Ramirez spreads cheese onto his grill at 24th and Mission in San Francisco, Calif., on Friday, March 10, 2023. Chopped cheese sandwiches are a New York staple, which Ramirez wanted to bring to his hometown of San Francisco.  | Juliana Yamada/The Chronicle

The starters at Suragan in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, March 16, 2023. From left to right: Gim Bugak, Beetroot Kimchi, Hwajeon, Oyster, and Yukhwe.  | Juliana Yamada/The Chronicle

Concierge Brandon Valle stirs a drink with an Expensify ice cube drinks at the Expensify office in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, April 13, 2023.  | Juliana Yamada/The Chronicle

Egg Tarts at Morrell’s Bread in Berkeley, Calif., on Thursday, May 11, 2023. The Lu family of Year of the Snake Foods has a weekly pop-up at Morrell’s Bread where they sell Asian American baked goods and pastries.  | Juliana Yamada/The Chronicle

The Shrimp and Pork Shantou Steamed Rice Roll, the Shantou Chicken Porridge, and the Chao Zhou Pan Fried Oyster Cake at SoHoMei in San Francisco, Calif., on Wednesday, May 10, 2023. SoHoMei serves food from the Chinese region of Teochew at their Noriega Street restaurant.  | Juliana Yamada/The Chronicle

Patty Lu pours custard filling into egg tart tins at Morrell’s Bread in Berkeley, Calif., on Thursday, May 11, 2023. Lu and her mother Jennifer have a weekly pop-up, Year of the Snake, at Morrell’s Bread where they sell Asian American baked goods and pastries.  | Juliana Yamada/The Chronicle

Head Chef Takashi Saito drops udon noodles into boiling water at Katsuo + Kombu in San Francisco on Thursday, May 18, 2023.  | Juliana Yamada/The Chronicle

Partially boiled udon noodles rest in a net at Katsuo + Kombu in San Francisco on Thursday, May 18, 2023.  | Juliana Yamada/The Chronicle